Before us is a pretty crescent bay ringed by wooded hills and farmland. A single surfer plays the waves.
"What do you grow here?"
"Corn, rice, chillies, peanuts."
"Are there fish in the bay?"
"Lots. And crabs."
The children follow me to the beach. We draw pictures in the shore and they squeak as the waves erase the art. Santi buries her feet in the sand, Ayu looks skeptical, and nine-year-old Rena asks questions. "Can you swim? I can't."
She gestures beyond the hillside boundary of the bay. I tell her there are lots of beaches on the island, and on Bali, on Sumatra, on Sulawesi...
"Have you been there?"
"Do they have fish too?"
Gerupuk is a fishing village a few kilometres east. "Well, there is a paved road, and lots of houses and motorbikes and cows. There are wooden boats like these and the bay is full of floating lobster houses." Rena squints up through her fringe. Floating lobster houses: very Alice.
Rena tells me her favourite school subjects are dancing and sports.
"What kind of sports?"
"Running and jumping jacks," she giggles, arms out like a starfish.
"The village has a lot of dogs. We throw away the puppies we don't want."
"Where do you throw them?"
She points to the curve of low green hills cupping Mawun Bay. "There, in the mountains."