"Tuban's got nothing but fish," said Surabaya driver Iwan Jauhari. "Nothing at all for tourists."
Tuban, East Java, overlooks the Java Sea and is a three hour drive west from Surabaya.
The heat is fierce and there is little shade. A woman shelters beneath a red Manchester United umbrella; another holds a child's wooden easel over her head. Everywhere is the carousel melody of the bicycle-pedaled ice cream carts.
"Kite fighting is called layangan adu," explains Endang. "The classic diamond-shaped two-frame kite is used and the string is coated with a mix of egg yolk and broken light bulb glass. The string must be good quality, sometimes we import it from Holland."
The objective is to sever the opponent's string. "But if you want to know more about kite fighting, you should ask a man."
Museum Layang Layang Indonesia
(+62) (0) 21 765 80 75
Jl. H. Kamang No. 38, Pondok Labu, Jakarta 12450, Indonesia