"Around 20 customers stop here each day to fill up," said gasoline-gal Wayan, who operates a motorbike workshop the size of a one-car garage along the north road from Legian.
"Motorbike riders usually buy two litres per stop, and I often sell all of my daily supply," Wayan said, waving her hand towards her stock: gleaming golden delicious along three neat rows of a homemade wooden display rack. She buys her daily stock from a local petrol station and brings it home in a jerry can.
"Cinta vodka," a man sings from the oily shadows of the motorbike workshop. Cinta (pronounced chinta) means love.
The discarded bottles are collected from restaurants and bars, but the preference is almost exclusively for Absolut. "Absolut holds exactly one litre," explained Nyoman. "Other bottles hold a little more or a little less. Absolut Vodka: pas." Pas means something is a really good, or exact, fit.
Back in Jakarta, petrol is sold in Coca-Cola bottles.